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Friday, May 25, 2012

Best of Britain, Part 3: Colchester-Towne


Colchester is only about an hour’s train northeast of London, but when telling Londoners you’re headed there, they give you the strangest looks and ask you why. According to them, it’s a sleepy little town with nothing to do and not much to see.

I beg to differ.

I recently visited a good old college mate of mine who is now married and lives in Colchester (with her very British, very wonderful, husband Steve). She was an amazing tour guide, and between Tina and Steve, Becca and I had the absolute best time! Most of the credit for this post goes to Tina and her amazing capability of rounding up and engaging people in innovative and super fun ways!
Colchester is the oldest town in England – and the nation’s first capital, from when England belonged to the Roman Empire (founded shortly after the Roman conquest of Britain, AD 41). It’s also the actual site of the ancient wall where Humpty Dumpty (yes, THE nursery rhyme) fell, and where the Twinkle Twinkle Little Star lyrics were written. It’s a place steeped in history and legends, and a nice breath of air post-London!

Typically portrayed as an egg, apparently Humpty Dumpty was neither, though he does have a controversial origin. Because of the clear difference in bricks used for the building of a church steeple at St. Mary-at-the-wall church, Humpty has been thought to be a bell or a cannon that was shot down, along with the top of the spire that was later re-bricked. More probably, it was a cannon called “Humpty Dumpty” that was blasted off the nearby Roman wall during the locally infamous Siege of Colchester.
Doing our part to upkeep the Wall.

The Siege of Colchester began in 1648 during the English Civil War. Lord-General Thomas Fairfax, head of a Parliamentary force against King Charles I, attacked a Royalist army on its way to support the King. The Royalists retreated behind the wall and an eleven-week stalemate resulted in the Siege of Colchester. After Royalists in another part of the country were defeated at the Battle of Preston, the Colchester refugees were forced to surrender. Meanwhile, the Royalists’ cannon was blasted to pieces and “all the king’s horses and all the king’s men couldn’t put Humpty together again.”

Hugging the wall is a great way to take a self-guided walking tour of Colchester, made better by the fact that the place where Humpty fell is next to a drinks-only pub aptly named “The Hole in the Wall” with an outdoor patio. Old churches and graveyards abound, and pleasant days make meandering through them absolutely romantic.


As for Twinkle, Twinkle, this FIVE STANZA relic was created by two sisters in Colchester, forced to hide indoors during the Napoleonic Wars. Struggling with their forced house arrest while also collaborating on a book of children's poetry, lengend has it that it was a single window to the outside world that showed them the stars that inspired "The Star," later re-titled and set to Mozart's famous tune.

There’s an amazing old castle in Colchester built by William the Conqueror around 1069 and even bigger than the Tower of London’s White Tower. It was finished around 1100, apparently delayed by Viking threats. King John later inhabited the place, too. History that old yet still so tangible and REAL is incredible! A rich old lady bought the castle in 1727 and gave it to her daughter and son-in-law Charles Gray, a member of Parliament (MP). Gray restored much of it and landscaped a gorgeous surrounding garden. In 1922, the castle was given to the town. http://www.cimuseums.org.uk/making-a-visit.html

It costs about 6.75£ to enter and is probably worth it, but to be honest, it closes so early each day that we never had time to pay for the full experience. But if you cross the drawbridge and enter the foyer, you can peek into the well and see a couple amazing dungeon cells.

This is also obviously a perfect place for photo ops, entry or no.



It’s also close to local FREE museums that are small but worth a browse, namely, the Hollytrees toy museum and the Natural History Museum. The former has a fantastically random collection of dusty old toys, photos, artifacts, and hands-on activities related to Colchester and England in general, and is a riotous blast to the past! It looks out over Mr Gray’s garden and Colchester Castle.

A quick jaunt away, the Natural History Museum is an educational look at Essex’s geography, geology, zoology…and what makes it perfect is the wide collection of taxidermy, dating from the Victorian era to the present. Firefly, the friendly fox, is even available for petting. The kind curator was eager to chat during a slow rainy weekday, and assured us that present-day contributions are animals that have died naturally. Animals are not raised to kill and preserve at THIS museum!


You can tell the medieval/Tudor buildings in town by the lopsided white with black beams architecture circa 16-17th centuries. Our taxi driver informed us that these houses are quite lopsided because they were built in the days well before tools such as levels and laths. But even these old structures were built on top of even older ones, from the Roman period, and subsequent zoning laws in Colchester require professional archeological investigation of your home before you attempt any renovation, in case there’s something underneath! Recently, a Roman coliseum was discovered in the basement of an old home in the Dutch Quarter, and you can take a peek into it now.

Colchester’s City Hall is worth a gander, if only for the curious statues lining the staircase! Then there’s the shopping centre, with some great shops and restaurants. Definitely eat a pasty or two, try some Turkish food, or just drink lots of tea.
A mile south of the town centre sits Bourne Mill, a picturesque English tryst that no longer functions, but supposedly fires up a water wheel for special occasions. Tina informed us it’s a hot spot for weddings, and I can certainly see why. We saw some cool and mysterious water fowl…which we actually later identified at the Natural History Museum. Yay Colchester education!

For the following jaunts out of town, buses will be your best bet unless rent a car, or get in good with some locals who want to drive you around.

The definite best teatime we had in all of England (even better than across from Windsor Castle!) was at Tiptree. This is a jam factory, where the first jam was invented and bottled as a way to preserve strawberries for export to other counties in the late 1800s. Creepily enough, in the small museum there are bubbly jars of preserves dating from the early twentieth century! But interestingly, the best strawberries (and Tiptree’s specialities) are derived from a wild North American strain called “Little Scarlet”…God save the Queen, and you, Miss O’Hara!



You can’t actually see strawberry fields (forever) or the factory, but the rest of the museum is neat, you learn the difference between jam and marmalade which I’m pretty sure will help me win Jeopardy someday. Buy LOADS of samples of jams and mustards and the “Best Brown Sauce” in the gift shop, and most of all, enjoy a leisurely cream tea inside or on the patio. Have the MORELLO CHERRY jam on your scones: it’s SCRUMPTIOUS! http://www.tiptree.com/

To Mersea
…For crab catching, a recharge on the coast, “a great place to sink a few,” and a wonderful tea and flapjack. The drive to Mersea is pretty incredible: the rolling fields are yellow, as far as you can see. Why the British don’t change the name to something other than “rapeseed” I have no idea. But they look neat, and the yellow color’s probably necessary to brighten the landscape during week-long stretches without sun. Mersea is practically an island, depending on the seasons and tide. Like the land in “The Woman in Black,” but less desolate and creepy. http://www.mersea-island.com/getting-here.cfm

To Clackton Pier
Similar to the Santa Monica Pier, Dave & Buster’s, and Vegas all in one, on the coast of a very dirty part of Essex’ sea. A fun place to hang out for a bit, and watch guys fish. Apparently, they shot a feature film, “Love Bite” here, to be released summer 2012. Premise: a werewolf comes to town with an appetite for virgin boys! In order to avoid getting bitten, the virgin boys attempt to, well, I reckon you can figure it out. [BEST SNAPPY COMMENT TBD]

Gnome Magic
There are actually official highway signs for this phenomenon, which is worth the 4£ simply for its entertaining absurdity. For anyone who loves gnomes, dwarves, elves, and little forest creatures, this is indeed a magical place. Bring your camera, afterward maybe have a cuppa. It’d be cool if they had a scavenger hunt or some sort of quest to make the forest walkthrough more meaningful, but it’s still fun. You can also buy and paint your own gnome but there aren’t any easily portable options, so we didn’t. http://www.gnomemagic.co.uk/


Boot Sales http://www.carbootsales.org/county/essex.html
If a garage sale and a car got married and had a million babies... it’d be the Ardleigh Boot Sale. Like a giant flea market, it’s loads of fun, for people watching and bargain questing. The smells are crazy weird, the food is delicious. Go early, see everything, and don’t be afraid to negotiate, haggle, and quarrel to your heart’s content. You can get good local produce and meat straight off the hide here, too, which I would TOTALLY do if I lived there. My best advice is to grab a greasy sandwich, tea and donuts at the food trucks, buy an old book and sit in the grass reading aloud and soaking in the awesome crowds that make up an Essex boot sale.

The Only Way is Essex
Obviously, since you’re spending all this time traveling around said county. Get yo’ reality TV on!

Getting There: London to Colchester
Obviously, it’s the most fun to travel abroad if you know someone who lives there, but if you don’t have that advantage, here’s your mini how-to get started in Colchester (from there, go meet some locals). In England, since trains run basically on a star with London as its hub, it’s particularly difficult to get around off the grid. But London to Colchester, at least, is still on that grid, and we’ll start from there.

From Liverpool Street Station in London, take a train toward Ipswitch. About forty minutes of smoggy suburbia will slowly turn into rainy countryside, and suddenly you’ll find yourself in Colchester. There are two stations that bear the Colchester name: one’s outside the town, and one is specifically “Colchester Town” that sets you in the heart of town. They’re on different tracks, so make sure you know which one you’re on when you depart, but you can easily take a cab or wait for a bus to the city centre if you end up on the outskirts station.

Thursday, May 24, 2012

Best of Britain: Part 2. Catching Crabs in Mersea


How to Catch Crabs
(Safely)









1. Buy some bacon. You don’t need much—maybe one rasher (strip) per person.

2. Obtain little mesh bags. You know, the kind onions are born in at the store. And lemons. Or maybe an old butterfly net. Or some cheesecloth.

3. Put the bacon and a stone or weight in the mesh bag (or wrap in cheesecloth) and tie a cord/twine/string on it.

4. When the tide starts to come in, dangle the bag into the water. If you’re on a footbridge, sink the bacon-bag close to the pilings, in the shade and close to the bottom.



5. Watch for crabs. When they clamber onto the bag pull them up. Best to pull in a quick (but not too quick), smooth, motion.

6. Store in a bucket o water ‘til you’ve finished your fun, then feed them the rest of the used bacon and release.

UNLESS
You have an [Asian] friend who knows how to prepare/cook them.

7. Unwind from catching crabs with a nice cup o’ tea and a flapjack…or a crabcake.
*TIP: Unused bacon with eggs would make an excellent dinner.



Thank you TINA and her wonderful friend Liz for introducing us to the joy of catching crabs!

Monday, May 21, 2012

Best of Britain: Part 1


Just got back from a delightful battery recharge in merrie olde England with some of my favorite people. Here are some observations we found amusing.

ESSENTIAL SLANG & VOCAB
Ale – warm beer.
Biscuits – cookies or chocolate.
Bobbie – cool hats win over donuts in the British version of policia.
Boot – the trunk of a car; place from which cool things are sold (see “boot sale”)
Boot Sale – A conglomeration of junk and delicious food truck smells…in a field.
Brolly – Or as Rihanna calls it, "umbrella." As soon as you buy one, the sun will come out. Blasted schizophrenic England summers.
Cider – the coldest thing you can drink in England.
Changing of the Guard – a chance to hear hotties in fur hats play Kenny G and classical favorites in front of Buckingham Palace.
Chips – the ubiquitous fried food of England. By the time you get used to them being served with EVERYTHING, a random meal will come without, and you’ll have to order on the side.
Chub – an old fashioned skeleton key, usually used for the bolt lock.
Crisps – American-style chips.
Cream – Thick, gooey, stuff you slather on scones (with butter and jam.) Not always delicious. Don’t put it in your coffee or your tea.
Curry chips – a definite must-eat.
Flapjack – a square of sugar, oats, and honey packed together and eaten scrumptiously with tea.
“F*** RIGHT off “– the neocolonial phrase for telling people to mind their own business.
Gutted – An absolutely awesome word for “upset.”
Lie In – It’s important to use this UK variation, otherwise people will think you’re talking about wanting to see “Big Ben” when you’re saying you want to sleep in.
Pants – underwears.

Pasties – rhymes with “nasties,” but they’re anything but. Delicious, home-made style hot pockets/calzones filled with an even better variety of delights and eaten by pirates, miners, and tourists alike.
Pimm’s – a delightful cocktail made of medicinal syrup but sweetened with chunks of fruit. Best drunk whilst punting on the Thames or Cam Rivers.
Posh - No one will understand "fancy." Use "posh." (Posh is simply fancy.)
Roundabout – ridiculously complicated/frightening style of intersection, necessary for a backwards driving/road system.
Tea – English breakfast. Occasionally Earl Grey.
Telly – Boob tube.
“To be fair”– Heard in every other sentence, it's British propriety at its best.
Top Hat – London’s iconic black cab.
TOWIE (The Only Way is Essex) – Reality television; Jersey Shore a la Brit.
“Wicked” – “very.”
“Wicked As” – “Very … cool?”


In front of St. Martin in the Fields church, Trafalgar Square, London.

EPIC PUB NAMES
*(Not including myriad pubs named after every Royal Monarch England’s ever had)
Dirty Dick’s
Saloon Bar Lounge
Ye Olde Cock Tavern
Hoop & Grape
Elephant & Castle
Flanagan’s: “Probably the best Guinness in London.”
The Bell: “You Can Ring My Ding Dong.”
Flowers of the Forest
Shakespeare’s Head: “Great Shakes.”
Sherlock Holmes
Pitcher & Piano
Cherry Tree
Horse & Groom
The British Grenadier
Fat Cat
The Fox & Fiddler
The Abbey & Armor
The Goat & Boot
The Rover’s Tye
The Punter
The Waterman
The Maypole
The Hole in the Wall
*Planet of the Grapes (wine store)
*Slug and Lettuce (eatery chain)
*Gnome Magic (wonderland)

Wednesday, April 18, 2012

Mr. Borat

Diary Flashback, Cambodia, March 2011:

It’s hot and steamy in the former prison camp outside Phnom Penh, Cambodia. After spending the last hour kicking up rags and bits of bones from the mass graves left from the Khmer Rouge genocide, I’m somber as I return to my tuktuk driver lounging nearby on his motorcycle taxi. He stands briskly and waves as I approach.

“You finished. Now you want to see some museums?” Borat asks, grinning. He pulls out his colorful, carefully laminated map, and points out local tourist hot spots: museums, temples, a market. Tuktuk drivers are well versed in what the tourists want.

Everyone I’d encountered before traveling told me not to bother with Phnom Penh—a hot city, crowded, they said, filled with beggars and children hawking trinkets. Seasoned travelers instead warned me to book it straight to northern Cambodia and the temples of Angkor Wat. I was excited by that prospect, but since Phnom Penh was an easy stop on the way from Vietnam to Siemp Riep, Becca and I figured we might as well spend a night.

We had arrived in the capital of Cambodia at midnight, disoriented and nervous after a very long bus ride. Borat showed up and in eager, broken English, insisted on finding us a hotel and arranged to meet us the next day to show us the sights. Though we were apprehensive at first, Borat has turned out to be a very special asset to us.

Now at noon, Borat’s more than ready to oblige his tourists, but Becca and I are quiet and reflective over the horrible history we’ve just witnessed. After such a morning, all we want to do is immerse ourselves in this tragic, yet alluring culture—get to know its beautiful people, get to know the culture as it continues to recover from its painful past.

Borat suggests lunch; says he knows some fancy places. Becca and I exchange looks. “We want to eat somewhere cheap,” I say.

“Oh yes, cheap, cheap.” Borat nods. “Good place.”

“But we want Cambodian food. ” I say. “What do you like to eat for lunch?”

“You want to eat what I eat?” asks Borat.

“Yes!” we laugh.

Borat hesitates, then revs the tuktuk. “I know a place near your hotel. I’ll take you there.”

“Cheap?” I ask.

“Cheap, cheap.” Borat winks.

“Cambodian?” asks Becca.

“I will eat with you,” affirms Borat.

We follow Borat in filling a plate from steaming pots as the elderly cook looks on approvingly. We fall silent as we dip into aromatic broth, rice, chicken, and cumin-flavored potatoes served at rough tables in a tin shack. It’s a simple meal, yet surprisingly flavorful. Other tuktuk drivers join us out of the midday sun to eat.

As we finish, we ask Borat what he usually does on a Sunday afternoon. He's amazed. “No one has ever asked to do what I like to do. I want to work. But if no one wants a tuktuk, I watch kickboxing.”

“Kickboxing!” we exclaim, excitedly.

“You like it?” he asks incredulously. We nod. “We want to do what you do!” we say. He shrugs. “Why not? I take care of you. But first we must negotiate price.” I pitch the going rate. Becca chimes in: “And we’ll buy you beer!” He shakes his head, laughing. “And you drink beer? It’s a deal.”

And we did eventually make it to Angkor Wat, outside of Siem Riep, Cambodia. It was truly awesome.

Riding the tuktuk through Phnom Penh is fun. Cambodians piled up on scooters wave and smile the most brilliant smiles I’ve ever seen. I’d say they’re giving the “land of smiles” a run for their money.

The Cambodian Television Network is a sprawling building with a statue of Buddha in front and an adjacent boxing arena. The match is already underway, and the crowd is loudly participating from the sidelines. Becca and I follow Borat up into the bleachers. It’s daunting, but exhilarating.

A questionable ref call causes a sudden fistfight between two men below us in the audience. But as quickly as it starts, the fight is over, and so is the match. A guard informs us that there’s to be a pop concert inside starting shortly, so we head inside.

It’s nice to sit down in a cool room and watch the crew set up the stage. Borat entertains us with stories of his family and Khmer culture while we wait. The studio fills with chattering teenagers and picnicking families. Even during the concert, the crowd never quiets, but the show is an elaborate affair to remember including a Japanese company raffle and comically serious pop numbers. It’s a weirdly wonderful fusion of vastly different Asian cultures. Once, I look up and see Becca and I in the TV camera. Borat laughs. “You are on Cambodian National TV!”

Hours later, we sit outside over pitchers of Angkor beer next to a pig roasting on a spit and swap stories. Borat speaks proudly of his wife and three children. I ask him how much money he makes in an average week—about thirty dollars. He considers it lucky that he met us, giving him brief but steady work.

His parents were killed by the Khmer Rouge in the 1970s, but he refuses to dwell on it. I ask if he earns enough to support his wife and 3 children—he says that it’s a lucky he works for us now. He’s eternally optimistic— his brown eyes always look like he’s about to tell a joke. He does, in fact, tell lots of jokes. We laugh late into the night.

In the morning, Borat is waiting for us, all smiles. “My wife says thank you for sending me home drunk with money in my pocket!" Hugging him goodbye at the bus terminal is sad, but he assures us he has notified his friend in Siem Riep to pick us up at the bus stop. We thank him for showing us a wonderful side of Cambodia after their history of tragedy, and he salutes us and tells us not to forget him. We promise we won’t, and settle into our seats for a long ride.

Sure enough, hours later, we’re greeted with a smile and a sign: “Welcome Ms. Becca Berry–Ms. Rebecca–Mr. Borat.”

Friday, April 6, 2012

BLUE LIKE JAZZ, THE MOVIE: The good, the Bad, and the Iffy

There is something beautiful about a billion stars held steady by a God who knows what He is doing. (They hang there, the stars, like notes on a page of music, free-form verse, silent mysteries swirling in the blue like jazz).

Blue Like Jazz: Nonreligious Thoughts on Christian Spirituality was a break-out book in the 2000s that resonated particularly with a subculture of Christian evangelicals who were dissatisfied with the state of the church and how far from Jesus the church had strayed, and how conservatively packaged in unreality the Christian label had become. After a long road to production, the screen adaptation hits movie theatres April 3. It's a solid cast, a decent adaptation and promotes some good discourse regarding God and life. Blue Like Jazz, unlike the “Christian” movie genre, addresses many of the struggles my peers struggle with today, and doesn’t try to suger-coat it or solve it all through a single altar call or recipe. Though while not as in depth as I'd like it to delve, I say it's a start, and certainly an accessible narrative. Go see it and then come discuss with me.

I resisted reading Blue Like Jazz in late highschool/early college because all the hipster Christians were doing it and it seemed to become a rite of passage for evangelical youth, at least in my community. Always one to resist Christian propaganda, (despite the book’s subtitle) I stood my ground and stuck to the Ol’ King James (not).

I sincerely meant to read it when someone bequeathed me a copy, but lent it away before I had the chance and she never gave it back. LSS, now it’s a movie. I saw a pre-release screening last week and followed it up by reading the book. Some of its nuances and ideas have well resonated with me this week, and I’m working my way through the author’s other books. I thought reading after seeing it worked well as it served to explain some quirks about the film.

FAVORITE SCENE: Possibly when a group of Reed students dressed as robots invade a local bookstore to dissuade customers from supporting big corporations. Watching Reed College life made me want to enroll. It’d help me score more jobs than having just one Bachelor’s degree, I’m sure.


THE GOOD:

- Character development was pretty solid, and casting was excellent. Comprised of a cast including professed Christians and atheists alike, the characters included Christian-movie taboos like lesbians, hippies, and alcoholics who were not only well-developed but also redeemable people. And used realistic language (!)

- Aesthetics were fine. In fact, I really enjoyed the look of the film. Good sets, costumes, and a decent score (mostly northwest indie and some jazz. I’d have liked a tad more jazz).

- “Tough themes” were addressed, adequately, for the most part. Blue Like Jazz has been somewhat controversial in some conservative circles because it has proposed a radical view of Jesus and Christianity. Don Miller was a conservative southern Baptist who turned away from his faith, attended a liberal college and had a prolonged period of existential exploration before ultimately rediscovering Jesus in a completely different way. Naturally, the tough themes include everything from drug use/abuse, alcohol, sexuality, and other evil liberal activities. However, it addresses these struggles and while not necessary condoning them, certainly embraces the reality of a faith that critically questions and analyzes versus blind following.

- Sucks you into the story. Don’s narrative is pretty captivating from the get-go – we all want to see what happens when the nerdy Southern Baptist with his polos tucked in goes off to liberal Oregon, right?

THE BAD:

- The animation – wtf?! First of all, it wasn’t great quality. Second, I had no idea what the EFF was going on for a few not-even-entertaining minutes. When Don hops in his car to drive cross-country to Reed College. As we watch, all of a sudden there’s a grotesque life-sized bunny suit behind the wheel of the car. He spends the next extended sequence in animation, chasing a wild carrot woman (also animated) across a cartoon map of the United States until they end up at Reed, where both Rabbit and the Sexy Carrot morph back into real people –Don, and a Reed student in a carrot costume, who is accosted by another student in a rabbit costume as Don watches in amusement. In the book, I found out that this was an actual dream Don had had, which originally ended up with him catching and eating the carrot and learning “Moral #1: If you work hard, stay focused, and never give up, you will eventually get what you want in life." Then he gets sick and dies from eating Sexy Carrot, thereby learning “Moral #2: Sometimes the things we want most in life are the things that will kill us.” A good movie adaptation always assumes that the audience hasn’t already read the book, and although it did a pretty good job overall, I had to read the book to figure out how some of the randomness (including scenes where we cut from Oregon to the protagonist randomly floating in space).

- It drags. A lot of the scenes are drawn out, repeating points over and over again for emphasis. Show me, don’t tell me. Or tell me once and emphasize your point through visualization. There are also a few scenes that are just completely unnecessary. Like the animation, which I’ll address in a moment. Long scenes and repetition decreased the pacing of the movie, making it seem draggy in many spots.

THE IFFY:

- It [kind of] disproves its justification for the central premise by [kind of] resolving. It tries to do the anti-Christian film thing by positing tough life scenarios, pivotal questions about God’s existence and his role in history, and existential ponderings on what life means without offering an explicit altar call. But the story ultimately resolves. Don comes back to Christianity through the holy influence of his pal Penny, and as campus “pope” apologizes to the masses for their previous, shameful interactions with the mask of untrue Christianity. And then Don explains that he actually think jazz does resolve. An easy wrap?

- It still plays to the moderate. This is often a good thing (kind of my own default setting, to be honest) but I wonder if this will end up polarizing both sides. To me, it’s the kind of movie you want to see if you’re already that “liberal” brand of neo-evangelical who is all about social justice and secular indie rock. It’ll be tough to win over the conservative side of the evangelical subgroup—I mean, I’m sure the PG-13 rating automatically shuts it out of Bob Jones’ [very high] gates. Unfortunately, a lot of the mainstream won’t either, in part because that’s what happens when you try to straddle middle ground in the way Blue Like Jazz does.

After quite a dry spell, (he has barely four acknowledgement-worthy credits on IMDB, most of which are from the 1980s/90s) it seems Steve Taylor is finally making his mark. Apparently, though, he directed the 1996 Newsboys feature film “Down Under the Big Top” posted in ten parts on You Tube. It’s time well spent. Regardless, his work in Blue Like Jazz is good, and while his party is probably incorrect to hail him as a renown filmmaker, he just may end up a mighty voice in the industry one of these days.

“My most recent faith struggle is not one of intellect. I don’t really do that anymore. Sooner or later you just figure out there are some guys who don’t believe in God and they can prove He doesn't exist, and there are some other guys who do believe in God and they can prove He does exist, and the argument stopped being about God a long time ago and now it’s about who is smarter, and honestly I don’t care.” ~Donald Miller, Blue Like Jazz (the book)

Wednesday, April 4, 2012

A Prolonged Nightmare

Recently, I've been reading up on different refugee situations around the globe. More than three years after a thirty-six hour period of being a refugee myself, I still can't read about real world crises without thinking of my own, imagining if that horror had been magnified.

It was a global missions class the last semester of my senior year, and part of the deal was signing up for a simulated refugee weekend. We had to wear rough clothes and bring only what we could carry on our backs. In class, we were assigned "families" with a head male, a head woman, and a few others. Many of the girls were made to wear baby dolls as simulated infants.

I dug up the ten-page response paper I had written after Refugee Weekend, and with very slight modifications/editing for clarity, here is what I gave Dr. Cook on February 22, 2009.

It was February in rural Ohio. It was Hell.

“Rebecca, Rebecca, get up,” Becky was shaking me in my sleeping bag, and I shook my head, trying to escape the Muslim call to prayer that was singing loudly in my dream. But it wasn’t a dream, and I opened my eyes to an almost cinematic panorama: a red, sun-rising sky back-dropping a hearse-looking vehicle flanked by what appeared to be a funeral train stopped in front of an 18th century style brick house. I was in front of a campfire several hundred yards to the front side of this house, and the rest of my large group was furiously packing sleeping bags and gear. My heart slid into my stomach for the fiftieth time in as many hours: ‘I am a refugee.’

The night before had seemed like a long nightmare. At first, it was ok—I was playacting, and even the soldiers didn’t alarm me. But it lasted what seemed like an eternity, and it was so cold. I was ready to be done, and the worse thing about it was the entire time I kept realizing that tomorrow wouldn’t even be the end. We still had another two days and night. The thought kept driving me crazy. The van ride to a different location was wonderful—a whole ten minutes in a warm vehicle. But that was followed by another two awful hours, and I wondered at the houses that didn’t awake to the sound of tractors and marching hoards in the nighttime. ‘If my dogs were going crazy at 2am I think I’d want to know. Cook might know a few of these people and be able to warn them about his evil plot, but not all of them. I wish they’d call the cops and make this stop.’ When I at last fell into a troubled, freezing sleep at the refugee camp, I dreamt of my family and I escaping and running. I felt myself shivering all night, and for these reasons the Muslim call to prayer was both a relief and a dread.

“When I write my memoirs,” I told my family, “This chapter will be entitled, ‘The Prolonged Nightmare.’” They laughed, ruefully.

I scrambled to pack my things, then Dr. Cook came over and told us that to avoid future problems and demands from our guides, we needed to cough up all our food for them. I was already trying to figure out how to make what I had last through the weekend: I had been forced to throw some fruit to the masked marauders the previous night. We all started rummaging for the food in our bags. I started pulling out my two apples and the stack of granola bars that I was carrying for my family. Almost instinctively, I slid an extra granola bar into the cargo pocket of my camouflage pants. I had already put one there the night before, and I knew that if I had two, my family members would each be able to have a bite. If nothing else, it might boost our morale enough to help us carry on. I also decided to overlook the Army-packaged crackers and peanut butter in my bag. In the flat brown packages, they didn’t even look like food, and I figured if I could hold onto them a little longer they might help us survive til Sunday. I didn’t think of the ramifications of hiding food from Dr. Cook. I didn’t think of the sin of “lying.” I was thinking survival tactics, and of my family.

But while I was unloading my bag, I hastily unwrapped a half-frozen granola bar and stuffed it into my mouth, chewing discreetly as I made two trips to the food bin to dump my small handfuls. I didn’t care. I was the only one who hadn’t eaten when we had arrived at the refugee camp at 3:30 that morning, and I knew I simply had to have that granola bar, and I wouldn’t let it go without a fight!

Later that morning, we took old supplies from the barn to build a shanty. I was a champion fort-builder in my youthful tomboy days, but I was so cold and tired that it was hard to be motivated. All I wanted to do was sleep in front of the fire anyway: I thought it was pointless to build a shelter so far away from the fire that wouldn’t keep us warm. I also had the continually lurking thought that it wouldn’t matter anyway—that our shelter was going to be torn down by the same jerks that had harassed us all night. I wasn’t wrong, it turned out.

While we were building, people in camouflage started walking around. One nasty-looking girl was taking pictures. I thought that was dumb. ‘She’s documenting our pain while working to enhance it’. Another, with a beard, annoyed me even more. He was sauntering around with coffee, and later came swaggering by eating something in a bowl. I wasn’t super hungry, but it irritated me, and made me almost lust after something hot to drink or even just hot water to wrap my hands around. ‘I hate him. I fucking hate him.’ If they could use the language they spoke so carefreely, so could I.

It was frustrating.

My family’s head male was actually pretty weak and soft-spoken. He didn’t take charge much. So it was probably a good thing that we teamed up with a small family of four that seemed like real-life married couples. The two men took charge of the building project, and did a good job. I pitched in here and there; gathering bricks, offering advice, gathering hay for chinking the walls, and things like that. But it was still frustrating, because I felt helpless, and unmotivated, and unappreciated because I wasn’t being asked to do anything. The guys were doing most of it, and three of the other girls were proactively offering help more than I.

After that, Samaritan’s Purse came. I was actually surprised, and thought that in real refugee situation this would be a once-every-100-days opportunity. I still wasn’t super hungry at this point, but the rice and lentils were delicious. Once I started eating I became hungrier, however, and then we didn’t have enough to satisfy me. It struck me as ironic and typical that the SP girls handed out tiny portions, said “God bless you,” and left. This was frustrating, too. ‘I’m thankful for their kindness, but if this is how a lot of aid operations work in reality, it’s a sad scenario. Not enough supplies, and not much connection with the people. A simple “God bless you” will suffice.

Then around 11 or noon (we now had no semblance of time since our watches were confiscated as well, and it was driving me nuts—we kept taking bets on the current time) the inevitable happened. Aaron, my head male, and I noticed soldiers crouching around the side of the barn. I immediately ran back through camp to warn the others, and we started gathering, rucksacks at the ready. Eventually, when the raid happened, they yelled at us to drop our bags. Knowing that they would be “safe” at Dr. Cook’s house was the only reason I dropped mine. I don’t think I would have in a real refugee situation. But then again, in a real crisis, the guns would have fired bullets, too.

The daytime walk wasn’t as painful as the night one. In fact, if my feet hadn’t hurt from the night before the first five minutes were almost pleasant. It was “British weather”—chilly, misted and foggy. But there was light, and it was almost warm, walking. The soldiers weren’t even wearing masks, and I recognized half of them. I felt more and more like this was a simulation. This, too, was frustrating, because here were these people I knew who were making my life so miserable! I started thinking of it even more as a fake scenario and not a real refugee crisis. But then they made us stop for a long period of time. Standing.

It was incredibly frustrating.

At this point, I was getting angry. ‘This isn’t a refugee scenario, this is a torture situation. They’re standing around for no apparent reason talking. I am so exhausted. Standing would be an excellent torture tactic. I wonder if they do this at Guantanamo. I should suggest it instead of waterboarding.’ I was standing in the middle of the group, and with my Islamic head scarf I couldn’t see much. After a time, we began walking again and I perked up. Then we stopped and were ordered to our knees. It hurt, but I put my head down. I was terrified the soldiers were going to search our pockets and find my granola bars. All I could think about was going back to camp and eating my forbidden crackers. ‘If only I hadn’t given up my apples. That would have tasted so good with the peanut butter…’

I fell asleep. Broad daylight, hunched over in the middle of the road, I drifted out of consciousness. I moaned when the shouting soldiers brought us back. They singled out the Jews this time, but on our way back separated men from women and sent us back alone. It was frightening. Not as much as it would have been in a real situation, because by this time I was comfortable and angry in my situation. I wasn’t scared, just mad. But then we got back to camp and it was a disaster. It had truly been ransacked, and not only were our shelters destroyed, but our bags had been taken apart and strewn all over camp and into the desolate fields. I was about to throw a fit. This stuff is borrowed! How am I supposed to explain to Breanna that I lost all her gear? Why did they do this? I am so pissed off that they took those crackers AND the peanut butter!

I stumbled out to the field to get my sleeping bag. While I stood there, ready to cry tears of rage, I remembered something wondrous. I still had the rest of my chocolate coins in my inside jacket pocket from the night before! I couldn’t believe my good luck. I looked around slowly, to make sure no one was around, then slid my hand into my pocket, unwrapped it with one hand, and pulled it out and ate it, slowly dissolving the delicious wonder.

My strength renewed, I returned to camp and began re-packing. The men returned and began rebuilding the shelter. I found a brown, squashed banana that still had an edible half. I ate it. Then, amidst toilet paper scraps and sticks, I found a package of “Fruit Smiles,” the WalMart fruit snacks that my Dad and I love. I picked it up. It was unopened, and not even wet. It wasn’t mine, it must have been ransacked from someone else and dropped. ‘Oh my gosh. I am so happy. They are so stupid to have missed this! They can’t take everything from me, even if they try!’

Later, Cook made us catch and kill chickens to eat for dinner. I had seen this atrocity take place before—my Dad raised turkeys and used to do it. But I had sworn I would never be party to it, and I didn’t believe Cook was actually going to make us do it until the first one was killed. ‘I won’t, I can’t, I’m not hungry enough to do this!’ He kept saying, “If you had children, and they were starving, you would do it.” It was so frustrating. ‘But I don’t have children! And I’m NOT a refugee! And this is a sick waste of tons of chickens—we can survive the night without them! If anything, you should just give us back our food!’

But kill we did. Aaron and I were the last to kill one, and it made me ill, but by this point I was so sick and cold and determined to get the job done. “Aaron, you have to get it in one or two blows,” I said. I don’t care what you do. It’s bad enough to do this to it but to let it suffer like that and prolong it…” He nodded solemnly. I held it firmly as Aaron slashed at its head. I felt its body shaking and tremoring, and I felt the life in its organs running up and down the body after the head was severed. Plucking it was miserable. It was so cold and freezing rain had come, and my hands became numb the second I pulled them out of my gloves. We had to wait forever for our turn to use the knife. By that time, some of the first families had already finished cooking their chicken, and it looked so good, which made me frustrated yet again because how could it look delicious when I claimed I wasn’t that hungry and I had just seen how it came to be?

Then they killed a lamb. I didn’t see it, but I heard it die. I refused to look but I was too paralyzed to run and I had to hear it. . I didn’t believe he was going to kill it right there, either, but he did. I was livid. Cook gave a speech about how life and sacrifice is beautiful. But I hated him. I hated him. I hated everyone. I hated the girls who were crying tears of beautiful joy and embracing this turbulent time of growth. I hated the weak college boys around me who were supposed to be strong and brave and helpful. I hated everyone who wasn’t enraged and starting a revolution. I hated myself for the same. Somebody commented later that the analogy of the lamb to the life of Christ Cook made was beautiful. I suppose it was, but I was so cold I didn’t hear much. And I was so angry about the unnecessary life of the lamb being lost that I was mad, and didn’t draw the connection until after the weekend.

But after that, with a renewed sense of determination, I took over the cutting from Aaron and finished gutting and dicing our chicken. I started ordering him around, frustrated with his lack of ability to be on top of things and BE A MAN. I made him cook it, and was frustrated that he took so long to even get started. ‘I would get stuck with a lame family like this. Mark and Andrew are such good family heads—Aaron is so passive! I wish Haddon hadn’t dropped out…’

I ate the chicken. It was grilled and burnt, and the 8 bites I got from my half didn’t seem worth the work and the sacrifice. But I ate. Then, ashamed, I went to the outhouse and pulled out a contraband granola bar from my pocket and scarfed it down. My hands were non-functional, but I ate, and drank more water than I had previously the entire weekend. I was ready for the next raid.

But it never came, and stressed, dying of smoke inhalation, and dehydration, I stood by the fire. We wanted to fix the roof of our tent that was coming undone, but were afraid we’d have to start running for our lives and didn’t want anyone stuck in the small crawl area that was our home. The water ran out, and people went to get some, but reported that Cook said he’d take care of it. He came out, and I asked again. He said to come get it in five minutes, but I suspected ambush, so I never went back. I bummed water off my family after coercing them out of the barn. We stood ready at the fireside.

‘It must be ten o’clock by now. Why aren’t we doing anything? I’m not complaining, I like this fire. But it’s so stressful to have to sit here with the pack and not know.’ Eventually, my family and I decided not to go back to our shelter, but to sleep cuddled next to each other and the fire. It was uncomfortable, and sandwiched between two fires I couldn’t breathe, even with my head scarf on my face. Yet I was still freezing. I drifted into sleep for probably about ten minutes, the wind whipping overhead. ‘Why do I always get stuck on the end of the spoon lines? I want to be in the middle. But I’m glad Jordan is on my back. I like having him around. I didn’t think I’d like having him in our family but he’s a good guy…’

It was frustrating. It seemed like a step outside reality. It was frustrating. It was the most miserable 36-or-so hours of my entire life. It was so frustrating. That’s all I kept thinking, over and over and over again.

One of the reasons I think it was so frustrating was because I realized I really have NO tolerance for pain. I get cold so quickly under normal circumstances, and after a short while I just become miserable. I would have died without the continuous fire—in fact, at camp I barely left it. Yet it never satisfied me. Towards the end of our stay, as we restlessly drifted in and out of consciousness waiting for the next raid, I was so close to the fire that it MELTED the sole off my US Army-issued field boots, yet I was still shivering with cold. When we were in the barn during the afternoon, waiting for rain and snow to subside so we could cook our chicken, my hands were so numb they wouldn’t work. I couldn’t function. The fire drew me to it, and I couldn’t stay away. Yet I could feel the flames dehydrating me and pouring putrid smoke into my lungs. I couldn’t breathe. My eyes, bloodshot before the weekend had even started because of lack of sleep, grew more bloodshot and eventually the “whites of my eyes” were a long-lost legend.

As we waited in purgatory for Hell to continue, suddenly, a caravan of white vans arrived. We were hustled to the other side of the barn where they waiting, again driven by black masked, ninja-like hulks in the darkness, the vans’ exhaust pipes trembling and smoking as they waited for their cargo. We stumbled in, and I didn’t care where they were taking us because it was warm. We were crowded close together, and even if the heat wasn’t on, we were out of the wind amongst trapped body heat. I was so tired. The heat slowly started unfreezing my brain and I became curious.

Suddenly, I knew where we were. In the black cornfields and back roads, I felt the school approaching. And suddenly, there it was. The ninjas hopped out, ushered us out of the vans in front of the student center, not unkindly. The lights of my own dorm twinkled a few feet away.

I thought it was a trick. I thought for sure they were taunting us—that we’d walk halfway home and then be chased and captured again. I walked hesitantly, lost and nervous to leave without the ninja escort. I put one foot in front of the other slowly. Then I ran. And ran. And ran. And they didn’t catch me.

As a woman, I also felt out of place because I was one of the few women not pregnant and without a child. At first I was incredibly thankful that I wasn’t “selected” to carry one. I have a bad back, and my rucksack was painful enough. Yet at the same time, I felt somewhat left out, because it seemed that every other girl had one, and a lot of the fathers/family members went out of their way to help each other or take on extra burdens for the women with children/unborns. It made me realize that in cultures such as these or extremist situations are how women are valued: if they have children. As one who ensures the family’s longevity as a continuing heritage, that is the only way women are valued in some cultures. And as a refugee I had no children, was not expecting any, yet I didn’t have the leadership status of a head male. And so I seemed to have no significance: I was merely another member of the family who followed along and attempted to survive. I had no real contribution or reason to survive—I wasn’t furthering the family genealogy or a hard working male.

Then we had to wear the Islamic head coverings. On the one hand, mine was a blessing and helped keep me warm and keep my tangled hair out of sight. I’m surprised Islamic nations aren’t in more cold-weather states. It would make more sense to have abundant garb in Siberia than in Iraq. On the other hand, it was humiliating and set us as women even further apart from the men. It was almost demeaning—made us all look the same. More than once, a man in a family—even from my own family—would address me by a different name accidentally, because one really had to look close to tell us apart under the black swathes of fabric.

It was frustrating. From the moment we started. From the week before, when the stress began to mount.

In the beginning, as we were waiting, standing around for almost three hours, waiting for the word to move, waiting to leave campus for this horrible experience, a lot of friends and people we knew all walked by us the SSC. They would inquire as to our lounging about in strange attire, and we would explain our imminent situation. Almost universally, time after time, the response was “Have fun!” A few more sensitive friends would acknowledge the somberness of what we were about to do, but the normal rejoinder made me wonder if we as a culture are SO deadened by the overuse of the word “refugee” that we don’t realize what it means to be one.

That night, my roommate wasn’t home. Good thing, or I would have literally smoked her out. It took me a long time to peel off all my clothes, reeking of smoke, and my boots, half melted. I limped to the shower and tried to wash it all off. Yet after the shower, my skin was raw and smoky, still. My eyes were bloodshot and red-rimmed. I felt sick, but not hungry. I went downstairs to find a vending machine and buy some juice. Two of my friends were studying in the lobby and looked at me in horror. I was clean and in fresh lounge attire, yet I still looked like I’d been through a war. They offered to get me juice and I gave them some money and waited for them to come back. I took it and thanked them with thick tongue and chafed lips, and Michael and Stephanie were sympathetic and kind, but I could feel their eyes boring into my back as I stumbled back upstairs to bed.

I slept five hours, then awoke because I was so hot. I opened my window, and almost died realizing the relativity of comfort. After that weekend, I thought I’d never open my window again. After five minutes, I closed it, so relieved that I had the power to control my body temperature like that. I breathed a prayer of thanks and fell back asleep for another six hours. Then I did some homework and then took another nap.

The first morning back at school, I was reading a book on terrorism for another class, and read the story of a hostage situation in Russia/Chechnya. It seemed so similar to the situation I had just faced, and put a whole new understanding for me on crises like these. I think it would be dangerous to say I can relate. It would also be false. But this tiny taste of torture and the way in which I could barely even endure it was a very healthy global reality check that I won’t soon forget.

The whole time, I was still frustrated by the after effects of such a short weekend and how awful my body reacted. I felt like a fool. I consider myself to be relatively in shape, but my whole body was sore, my eyes hurt, I could barely talk, and I felt dehydrated/smoke poisoned. After only 36 hours of Hell…and that is only Hell when speaking relatively to my everyday life. For millions of refugees every day, what I went through might have seemed much more plus. It was so frustrating, and still is. But I think I know what I need to do now.

Tuesday, April 3, 2012

“If I’m not doing anything, I shouldn’t call myself a Tibetan.”

The world is a fascinating place.

Sometimes it makes me weary. Weary, weary.

But sometimes I have to wonder if it is a sin to only want to absorb to learn and listen, to drink in and breathe deep, relax and wonder and learn and think?

You will argue that those things are good. But are they good all the time?

I read an article this week about students who were born as Tibetan refugees in India, and are now struggling with their own cultural identity/national crisis conundrum. One of them was speaking to a reporter about the revived student activism movement for #freeTibet. The student said: “If I’m not doing anything, I shouldn’t call myself a Tibetan.”

I thought about replacing “Tibetan” with many words. Adjectives, (also taking care to strike the article “a”) Hard-working. Generous. Creative. Brilliant. Ambitious. Or nouns (some taking care to replace “a” with “an”). Artist. Writer. Journalist. Human. Christian. Then I felt a little guilty for my earlier thoughts about wanting to only read, read, read, absorb, eat, eat, drink, watch, drink, drink, eat, read, watch, listen.

But then I thought: even these are important things. I have to be proactive to do them.

And I cannot be a citizen of the world, at least a good one, without listening and doing, and sometimes being quiet and reading and hearing and thinking. And after all, I have a lot to learn. I am not wise. So here’s what I concluded.

I can learn a lesson from a struggling Tibetan refugee activist student and be proactive. And I can also be proactive by absorbing and learning and wondering and thinking. And responding to all of these in thought and word and writing and singing and more proactivity.

And then I think the circle of life is enhanced and the sin of acedia is banished.


Here is something I read this week, as reviewed for Amazon. I like my Kindle. I also like free books, and LA Weekly. LA Weekly told me about this free e-book. LA Weekly also gave me free tickets for a show this coming Friday night. I also like Twitter, because it was through Twitter that LA Weekly gave me said tickets. You should all be on Twitter. But don't retweet LA Weekly's contest tweets, because that will mean weaker odds for me to win in the future.


The Long Drunk by Eric Coyote


In "The Long Drunk," modern noir meets Bukowski...but it's better than "Pulp," Bukowski's own attempt at noir. This is a gritty, hardscrabble story of a football pro-turned-homeless guy who tries to put aside his drunkenness to (or use it to the advantage of) solving a murder. Though his ulterior motives are surprising and almost too unbelievably exaggerated, it serves well as the catalyst that starts and finishes the piece. Murph - the protagonist - makes a great "long drunk" speech at the end of the book that clinches his character. He's the perfect protagonist with that pleasant mix of good boy, bad boy that hooks us but lets us sympathize with and root for him. You'll see what I mean when you read it.

Which, if you have a Kindle and some time and a little taste for the gritty side of the City of Angels, then you should.

"The Long Drunk" is a good debut novel - I stumbled upon an advert for it in the LA Weekly and took a chance, seeing as it was an affordable, instant buy. Coyote's story shows a lot of promise and really draws me into the Venice/homeless community more than anything else. He had some uncompromising dialogue, scenarios, and no-nonsense, and parts of the story definitely gripped me. Because some parts of the story were so realistically gritty and uncompromising, it make the "forced/fake" portions that much more difficult to swallow. Parts seemed forced, fake, or overexaggerated. There was a lot of repetitious description of the protagonist's pre-homeless backstory as a college/NFL superstar who met an untimely career termination and ended up on the streets. I will definitely give the author a sophomore try, looking for him to smooth dialogue, cut descriptions, and not ultimately backfire on the grizzled realism he's trying so earnestly to portray.

The thing about the noir genre is, it's kind of unbelievable in that almost-real-but-not-quite that grips us, sells us, teaches us, and leaves us wanting more. It's kind of the epitome of noir, and it's nice to get some modern stuff that's not afraid to cuss and spit and give us a radical ending but still redeem itself in those secretly heartwarming nuances, those strokes of brilliant dialogue, and that spark of universal humanity. Even from the streets.